Stomach infrastructure and pondering

A TASTE OF AFRICAN HISTORY 
I’m reading a book called, ‘The State of Africa, A History of Fifty Years of Independence” by Martin Meredith, and just WOW! So rich, absolutely riveting, enlightening. The fight for independence was the least bit glamorous. It’s in part the story of brilliant men gone mad upon succession of States, men who craved absolute power, men who themselves became the law and built structures to display ostentatiously but many times not taking up mandates promised before successions. There are, however, one or two exceptions. I’m stunned when reading about African States’ conditions at inception; especially the states with revolutionary ideas of full self-sufficiency and total withdraw from colonial powers, because many never recovered. In some unfortunate circumstances, once documents were signed, some colonies withdrew immediately, taking all they could carry along and burning what was left, leaving Africans to build entirely from scratch. The elites managed to amass enough wealth to sustain their lavish lifestyle, especially the ones with full access to state funds. (Ex- In the late 70s, Pres of Central Republic of Africa spending over $22million on his own coronation and Mobutu of Zaire owning a private zoo in this palace.

Since coming to Nigeria, it’s as if someone gave me a pair of glasses and I see politics clearer than ever. Through many dialogues, studies and simple observation, I’ve learned some things. I recently told one of my favorite professors that what they taught us in economics and management courses is only a small slice of practice here. I knew deliberations with faculty and colleagues in the US would differ from ones in Nigeria, I just didn’t realize the many degrees of difference. I’ve been exposed apace to how things really go down here. Some of it has left me perplexed a bit but all to my gain as I look to discover what is my part in this big African story. 

CONCEPTION AT INCEPTION

Part of what I’m learning is succinctly put in Martin Meredith’s book when he says, “African societies, it was commonly claimed, traditionally included many indigenous aspects of socialism: the communal ownership of land; the egalitarian character of village life; collective decision making; extensive networks of social obligations: all were cited as examples. 'We in Africa', asserts Nyerere, a leading proponent of African socialism, 'have no more need of being "converted" to socialism than we have of being "taught " democracy. Both are rooted in our past, in the traditional society which produced us."

I sat with one of my uncles, a seasoned Nigerian politician, on many occasions and he helped the blind (me) see. This, so called, extensive networks of social obligations is what I want to now discuss.

Stomach infrastructure- when I first heard this phrase I thought it enigmatic, but as we look deeper at the communal mindset of black Africans, the reasoning is rather simple and straightforward. The definition: in-formalized social welfare; taking money from government account with reason without giving account Here’s the lesson- when you're a big man in Nigeria, you're responsible for feeding 200 plus people because there isn't a formalized social welfare sys here. People come to your house and you feed them, give them transport money, pay their children's school fees, etc. If you're a govt official with a project requiring 2million naira, you'll ask for 5 million because you'll need money to feed people and also pay off those who put you in that position. If someone advocates for you or places you in a position, you more than likely owe them something. At the end you hardly walk away with anything in your pocket. We call this 'stomach infrastructure not corruption. Western definition of 'corruption' does not take into account the African orientation. As Mobutu, Pres of Zaire in the 70s put it, “steal cleverly, little by little.” I understand my uncle’s point and this seemingly beneficial concept of taking care of people is in fact a pernicious mindset because the big men naturally have a predilection for family and friends. My question is this- what happens to the ones without connections to big men?!? The simple answer is that they suffer. They wait patiently at offices day after day, hopeful for connection, and before you know it,  a year or two passes and they still live in status quo. This is one fundamental issue in Nigeria today- no connection, no prospect. In the US, connections are also crucial, but at least one stands a chance with proper education and work experience. Here work is awarded to those with connections and competence many times falls in at second place. The gravity of the matter stems not in the present, but that this ideology and practice took place during the colonial era. Martin Meredith puts this more eloquently, ‘At each level, big men worked the system, providing followers and friends with jobs, contracts and favours in exchange for political support; in order to retain support, they had to ensure the distribution of rewards. Throughout Africa, the politics of patronage and patrimonial rule became a common political pattern.” Such is still the case, at least on the state government level. My other question is, where is the acknowledgement of the big women, for what are they responsible?! But we don’t have time to go there right now…

TRADITIONAL CEREMONY

On a lighter note, I attended a childhood friend’s traditional and white wedding- 2 separate occasions, in this case, split into 2 weekends. Traditional marriage to many Nigerians is the legitimate marriage union. After this ceremony, you are freely husband and wife. The white wedding (called white wedding because of white gown and western tradition, I think) is the church ceremony and reception that takes place after the trad. During the trad ceremony, the groom brings his people to the bride’s village, bride price is negotiated, some rituals are performed (elders give honorable remarks and marriage advice, they break kola nut, and on). She dances to her groom, holding a glass of palm wine (affectionately called palmy), along with a couple of her friends to show all that he is her chosen one. After he shows his acceptance by drinking the wine, they dance together to her people and the dancing continues. People spray them money as they all dance together and this continues into the evening. There are designated money pickers with bags. The money is given to the couple as they start their newness of life together as one. This is a favorite part- money falling from the sky to the ground. It’s rather captivating, along with the bride displaying her beauty by dancing in amidst her dancers all in uniformed attire. See videos of trad ceremony below...

AN INTERNAL DISCIPLINE

I sat at the back of a car thinking of how Nigeria needs to change. The gentle voice I heed spoke up and said, “ Love her first before you try to change her”.  As any sagacious woman would, I asked, how? The response, “See her beauty, appreciate her complexities.” This is what I intend to do, and thankfully already am.

having fun with mom and new sister/friend

one of trad uniformed attire called Aso Ebi

road tripping with friends to nation's capital, Abuja